If the imposing facades of big-city buildings have you feeling a little claustrophobic, there's no better remedy than a visit to Inner Mongolia's seemingly endless grasslands. From Hohhot, three such areas are within reach, Xilamuren (beginning 80 km north of Hohhot), Huitengxile (120 km west) and Gegentala (150 km north).
Xilamuren Grassland
Meaning "yellow river" in Mongolian, the Xilamuren grassland (Xilamuren Caoyuan in Mandarin) gets its name from a lamasery built in 1769. Used as a summer residence by the sixth living Buddha, the temple lies on the banks of the Xilamuren River. Activities in this area include horseback riding, hunting, fishing, and if you're there in late July or early August, the Naadam Festival activities. You can also stay in authentic Mongolian yurts and enjoy the gentle sawing sounds of traditional music played on the matou qin (horse-head fiddle). Best visited during summer and fall, you'll find Xilamuren warm, breezy and rather cool in the evenings, so dress appropriately.
Gegentala Grassland
You might spend a day on the Gegentala grasslands (Gegentala Caoyuan) taking in traditional Mongolian dances, horse races and wrestling, trying your hand at archery and sitting around bonfires while enjoying a bowl of shouba rou (boiled mutton eaten with the hands). The locals can be very friendly, but beware of overdoing the local baijiu (fiery grain alcohol), often offered in quantity. It's powerful stuff.
A scenic area featuring colorful wild flowers and cloud-like flocks of sheep grazing endless, rolling plains, Gegentala is great place to take some pictures and enjoy the calming stillness of this peaceful land.
Huitengxile Grassland
Situated at an altitude of over 1800 meters, it's no wonder that Huitengxile means "cold plateau" in Mongolian, but don't let that dissuade you from visiting. There's lots to see and do on the Huitengxile Grassland (Huitengxile Caoyuan). From caving in the Meilitu Gully and Heishan Mountain's 99 grottoes to visiting the grassland's numerous hot springs, Huitengxile offers the usual traditional Mongolian activities on the menu, and then some. Try some hare's milk wine, or a camel ride and take in a gorgeous landscape carpeted with wildflowers in the warm months.
There is a 7:50 a.m. bus leaving for Xilamuren from in front of the train station, which costs RMB14 and returns at 3 p.m., but the easiest way to visit the grasslands will be by taking any one of the numerous grasslands tours on offer, which can be organized from any hotel. Another option is to catch a bus from the long-distance bus station to Zhaohe (Xilamuren grassland). These leave twice daily and are a bargain at RMB 8.
